Hope is not just awaited – it is studied, questioned and created at Aalto University
Seen from afar, the pale outfit looks like a weightless evening gown, its hem ready to lift its wearer off the ground. A closer look reveals that the top is hand-knitted and adorned with jewellery elements reminiscent of old spoons. The lower part turns out to be trousers, covered in thousands upon thousands of hand-tied fringes created using rya weaving techniques.
Enni Lähderinne says she spent over 200 hours tying those fringes. But the effort paid off: the ensemble, complete with a body ornament crafted from old cutlery, won her the title of Young Designer of the Year 2025. The theme of this year’s competition was fantasy. (See Enni Lähderinne's interview and photos of the winning outfit.)
Can hope be touched?
For the competition, Lähderinne interpreted the theme of fantasy through the lens of her late grandmother and her grandmother’s hopes. Her grandmother had once dreamed of becoming an opera singer, but a medical procedure altered her vocal range and redirected her life.
‘Life gave her other paths,’ Lähderinne says.
Those paths included conjuring a sense of magic for her family – for example, through clothing. Even her own wedding dress echoed the iconic New Look silhouette of the fashion house Dior. So perhaps it’s not surprising that the fringed lower half of Lähderinne’s award-winning outfit, made from reclaimed yarn and tulle, feels like an homage to Christian Dior’s design language, though crafted with recycled materials and the techniques of Karelian textile tradition.
‘In the project, I also explored what life might have been like if my grandmother’s dream had come true. To me, dreams are essentially wishes. Isn’t a dream just a wish looked at from a distance?’ she reflects.
‘Dreams, wishes, fantasies – they inhabit pretty much the same world. Maybe hope is something you can touch just a little more.’
Wishes fulfilled
Lähderinne describes herself as a naturally positive person who has been a dreamer since childhood. She believes hope – what the future might hold – carries her as a person, not just as a fashion designer.
‘But many of my wishes have already come true,’ she says with a smile.
‘I got into the field I care about, fashion. I’m a clothing designer. I won the competition. I’ve already received recognition. My next hope is to work abroad as a designer.’
Among her achievements, Lähderinne mentions interest from international stylists responsible for dressing major artists. Her fantasy collection piece has already travelled to Spain, and stylists for Lady Gaga and Chappell Roan have inquired about looks from her master’s thesis collection. She values that artists with something to say choose to wear her work. Lähderinne’s design sensibility is, after all, a message in itself.
The beauty of a curved back
Lähderinne may never have become a fashion designer had she not been forced to think differently about clothing as a school-aged child. In early adolescence, she had to wear a back brace 23 hours a day due to Scheuermann’s disease.
The rare, hereditary spine condition is treated with a custom brace that forces the wearer upright during their growing years.
‘As a teenager, I couldn’t dress like everyone else. I had to scour thrift stores for men’s XXL clothes because the brace’s metal frame made everything extremely oversized. I wore it for four years.’
In her Aalto University thesis collection, she examined what kind of relationship a person forms with clothing when they have an atypical body. What does it mean when there is an extra layer between the garment and the body?
‘In that collection, I studied and used Dior again – his feminine ideal is almost poetic. I took, for example, a Dior evening gown silhouette and combined it with the shape of a Scheuermann’s back. I disrupted the harmony – I wanted to show that it is beautiful. I think I succeeded.’
She hopes her work offers something meaningful to people with different bodies or those going through medical treatments.
‘Doesn’t seeing a model on the runway wearing a garment that fits your own exceptional body create hope?’ she asks.
Enni LähderinneDreams, wishes, fantasies – they inhabit pretty much the same world. Maybe hope is something you can touch just a little more.
Following engineer-politics
Doctoral researcher Ali Salloum believes we talk far too little about hope. Salloum, who studies political polarisation, argues that hope is a crucial driver in the world and moment we are living in. ‘We’ve been going through difficult times for quite a while. That only amplifies the importance of hope.’
Perhaps surprisingly, Salloum – who graduated as a Master of Science in Engineering – is now preparing a doctoral thesis on political polarisation. ‘We live in a networked world where every person and group is constantly leaving digital footprints. These footprints form massive datasets. To study them, you need computational skills. To uncover statistically significant patterns, you need mathematical models,’ he explains.
His work focuses on the mathematical modelling of polarisation and the use of AI to understand the phenomenon. ‘I’m lucky to study something people are interested in. It makes the work easier when citizens, experts, the state, various stakeholders, and the media all care about what we do.’
Salloum says polarisation has intensified sharply during the four-year period his research group has examined.
Understanding hard things creates hope
Polarisation can arise between two or more groups that, in the worst case, cannot tolerate each other. Research shows such groups tend to view each other as stereotypical and threatening. Polarisation can also be asymmetric, in which one group attempts to strip the other of rights.
It’s a grim topic, and one of Salloum’s data sources is social media. How does he find hope when he sees the content people post online?
He returns to the meaning of his work: ‘I’m privileged to be studying something socially important and to communicate its insights to the public,’ he says. ‘Knowledge increases understanding. Even a complex issue like polarisation feels less frightening when you can make sense of it.’
Salloum leans back in his chair. ‘Hope, for me, comes from the fact that as a species we strive to understand difficult things rather than panic and withdraw.’
Talking openly about polarisation is part of the solution, he adds. ‘Just recognising the phenomenon and understanding its mechanisms makes people more immune to the most extreme thinking patterns and the most harmful consequences.’
Knowledge – education and learning – strengthens that immunity. For Salloum, hope walks hand-in-hand with understanding the world. It is active: something individuals can build alone or with their communities. In difficult times, action itself creates hope.
‘Sometimes you just have to create hope yourself. And that becomes much easier when you understand how the world works and why people behave the way they do.’
Ali SalloumHope, for me, comes from the fact that as a species we strive to understand difficult things rather than panic and withdraw.
Technological optimism is not enough
Human behaviour has also puzzled Johanna Ahola-Launonen. She does not understand why people expect technology to solve all problems – structural, social, and political.
‘Why do we always hope for a new technology that will fix everything?’ she asks with an intent look. ‘Well, I do know why. It would be wonderfully easy.’
What she also knows – as an Academy of Finland research fellow – is that technology will not save the planet. She leads the SUSTHOPE project, which studies the expectations, values, and beliefs tied to technological optimism. According to her, relying solely on such optimism in the context of the sustainability transition is doomed to fail.
Hope that encourages people to live without depleting their own or others’ resources can be energising. In contrast, hope built on the idea that a future invention will fix everything becomes paralysing.
‘It gives people an excuse to assume that we can continue our current consumption patterns – and that someone will simply replace dirty materials and energy with clean ones.’
Ahola-Launonen emphasises that she approaches hope from the viewpoint of critical hope studies. Hope and optimism are not inherently positive. Hope can also encourage avoidance of responsibility, narrow thinking, or mask power relations. As an example, she cites Western societies’ fixation on technological solutions. Not a single technological innovation, she points out, has reduced the overall flow of energy and materials.
‘Inventions may make things more efficient, but when something becomes more efficient – or greener – people just consume more of it. We are extremely optimistic about our current way of doing things.’
Hope built on oil
‘The ability to hope is shaped by one’s surroundings,’ she says. What we understand as hope is in many ways a modern, Western form of hope – one built on a kind of self-sufficiency tied to fossil fuels.
Finns, Ahola-Launonen notes, are a notably technocratic people. ‘Our optimism is based on trust. We deeply trust science and technology and assume that the progress they generate will serve us.’
She stresses that there is no single form of hope; there are many kinds. She speaks often about the content of hope and the directions it can take.
Where does a sustainability-transition researcher like Ahola-Launonen find hope?
‘Climate facts are still poorly popularised. We are in a moment where there is an enormous body of research that needs to reach people quickly. What gives me hope is the idea that knowledge could help humanity reach a consensus: that the most important thing right now is to bring material and energy flows down significantly.’
‘I hope my work can be one voice countering the illusions of technological optimism or at least putting them in proper perspective.’
She brings her thumb and index finger close together, showing how small a role technological solutions should realistically play in solving the sustainability crisis. Then she spreads her arms wide, illustrating how much more focus should be placed on reducing consumption.
Johanna Ahola-LaunonenThe ability to hope is shaped by one’s surroundings.
My Name is Hope – Where is hope found under tyranny?
Aalto University educates film professionals and produces films that may also explore hope. One of the most extraordinary perspectives on hope comes from director-screenwriter Sherwan Haji’s graduate film My Name is Hope (2025).
Most of this fictional short film presents itself through the food hatch of a Syrian solitary confinement cell. What does the absurd everyday life of prison look like when the world seems to have forgotten the prisoners? As the prison’s newest janitor is trained to remove bloodstains from walls as efficiently as possible, flickers of a violent, tyrant-ruled society appear through the hatch.
How does one fight against being forgotten from inside solitary confinement? Where does hope come from when someone is imprisoned for their opinions – or their father’s?
The Arabic-language short leaves an unforgettable mark on the viewer in just twenty minutes. My Name is Hope won the main prize in the domestic competition at the Love & Anarchy Film Festival in autumn 2025.
Text: Tiiu Pohjolainen.
This article has been published in the Aalto University Magazine issue 37, February 2026.
Laboratory of Hope exhibition
In this exhibition, people from across Aalto University share what hope means to them and how they are helping to build a more hopeful society — through, for example, inclusive fashion and entrepreneurship, artificial intelligence, and new quantum materials.
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